Koshari
كشري
Koshari, Egypt’s national dish, is a marriage of Arab, Indian and Mediterranean flavours, a hearty blend of rice, lentils, chickpeas, and macaroni, topped with a rich tomato sauce and finished with crispy fried onions.
Served in homes and street vendors throughout the country (and increasingly, parts of the Arabian peninsula), Koshari has long been cherished for its ability to derive maximum sustenance and flavour from cheap, accessible ingredients, yet its exact origins remain somewhat of a mystery.
One thread that unites the often disparate theories on its ancestry is its connection to Khichidi (sometimes spelt Kitchari), an Indian dish built on a similar combination of grains and pulses.
Most popular accounts agree that Khichidi arrived in Egypt sometime after the British occupation in 1882, perhaps with the significant Indian Contingent who were stationed there. Although this theory is both logical and perfectly plausible, it is nonetheless possible that it could have arrived much earlier, thanks to the strong trade links between Egypt and India, which date back millennia.
Furthermore, it is believed that the dish owes its most notable distinction from its Indian forbear, (the tomato-based sauce and pasta) to the significant influence of Egypt’s Italian diaspora, who predominantly lived in the cities of Cairo and Alexandria at the time, and who left their indubitable mark on the country's culinary landscape.
Our version comprises pilaf rice with vermicelli, topped with a rich spiced tomato sauce, followed by chickpeas rolled in chaat masala, and a garnish of crispy onions and fresh dill. Perfect on its own or as part of a meze.
Serves 4
Ingredient
225g of white basmati rice
1 medium-sized white onion, finely chopped
2 cloves of garlic, minced
1/2 tsp of allspice
1/4th of a tsp of ground green cardamom
2 x 400g of tinned chopped tomatoes
2 tbsps of white wine vinegar
2 x 400g can of chickpeas, drained
2 tbsps of chaat masala
2 tbsps of ghee or unsalted butter (oil for vegans)
40g of vermicelli or orzo pasta
1 bay leaf
1 tsp of garlic powder
Vegetable/sunflower oil
Sea salt
To garnish
1 medium-sized white onion, thinly sliced
Fresh dill
Instructions
Preheat your oven to 180°C fan.
Rinse the rice under a cold tap until the water runs clear, drain and set aside.
Add 3 tbsps of oil to a large frying pan, when hot, add the finely chopped onion and a couple of pinches of salt. Sauté until soft and translucent, stirring regularly.
Add the garlic, all spice and cardamom and cook until fragrant. Add the chopped tomatoes, vinegar, 200ml of water, and 2 tsps of sea salt. Bring to the boil, and gently simmer for approx 20-25 minutes, stirring infrequently, until the water has evaporated and you have a thick, rich tomato sauce. Season to taste.
Meanwhile, add the drained chickpeas to a baking tray or oven proof dish and cover with a good glug of oil, the chaat masala and a couple of pinches of salt. Bake for approx. 20-25 minutes, or until golden.
For the rice, add the ghee to a large saucepan, when hot, add the pasta and bay leaf and cook, stirring frequently until the pasta starts to turn a light golden brown. Add the garlic powder, 325ml of water and 1 tsp of salt, stir well, and bring to the boil. Place a lid on tightly and cook on a low heat for 7-8 minutes. Leave to rest for 10 minutes with the lid on before serving and then season to taste.
For the crispy onions, add oil to a large frying pan until approx. 2-3 inches deep. When very hot, add a third of the sliced onion and fry until golden brown and crispy, stirring occasionally with a slotted spoon. Use the spoon to a transfer the onion to a plate lined with kitchen-roll and sprinkle with salt. Repeat with the other two batches of onion.
To serve, add the rice to a large serving dish or plate, cover with the tomato sauce followed by the chickpeas and crispy onions. Garnish with dill and enjoy!
Words Poppy Mist / Illustrations © Diogo Rodrigues