Tantanmen Ramen

[タンタンメン]

Beloved and celebrated in its homeland (where it is found in a myriad of forms) and by millions of people across the world, Ramen - a dish principally comprised of wheat noodles in an umami-rich broth - is one of Japan’s most iconic culinary creations, one that simultaneously emblematises diasporic influence, cultural loss and preservation, and the shifting tempos of consumption.

Although its exact origins are unknown, it is thought to trace back to the noodle soup dishes served by the Chinese migrants who settled in the major port cities of Kobe and Yokohama during the mid to late 1800s. Over time, the dish evolved, and by the late 1930s, it had become popular throughout Japan’s major cities, whose populations had grown dramatically during the rapid industrialisation of the previous two decades.

In 1945, Japan experienced its worst rice harvest in over 40 years, which, combined with the loss of agricultural land in former colonial territories in China and Taiwan, led to the dramatic scarcity of its primary staple food. In response, the US, who had occupied Japan following WWII, began importing huge amounts of wheat into the country which engendered a significant rise in the prevalence of bread and noodles. However, during this period, the Japanese government retained the food rationing system that they had implemented during the war, which neither they nor the U.S. authorities were able to manage efficiently.

This, in turn, led to regular and often, considerably long delays, and thus, in order to survive, many Japanese turned to the black market food vendors (many of whom served ramen) who had become increasingly important and prevalent during the latter stages of the war.

By the turn of the 1950s, the Japanese authorities began relaxing their restrictions on food items, and within a decade ramen had become a mainstay of working-class life in the country’s major urban centers, whilst in 1958, Momofuku Ando, the founder of Nissin Foods, invented the instant ramen, which would dramatically increase the accessibility of the dish thenceforth.

Our vegan version is based on a Tanatamen: a spicy, sesame-based broth that is inspired by the popular Sichuan dish of Dan Dan noodles. The base of this ramen is made using a kombu dashi stock, which is the key to its deep umami flavour.

Serves 3-4

Time 45 mins + soaking time

Ingredients

1.5 litres of kombu dashi stock [see recipe]

50g of toasted sesame seeds

4 shallots, halved and finely sliced

1 thumb of ginger, minced

4 cloves of garlic, minced

2 tbsps of toasted sesame oil

3 tsps of Chiu Chow chilli oil

2 tbsps of light soy sauce

3 tbsps of rice vinegar

200ml of unsweetened oat or soy milk

4 tbsps of white miso [buy unpasteurised if you can]

2 tbsps of light tahini

1-2 tsps of sea salt

To Serve

350g of ramen or egg noodles

Toppings of your choice [we opted for deep-fried ‘puff’ tofu, scallions, smacked cucumber & bok choi]

Instructions

Start by preparing the shallots, garlic and ginger and set aside.

Blitz the sesame seeds in a blender or food processor into a fine powder and set aside.

Add the toasted sesame oil to a large saucepan or stockpot over a medium-low heat for 2 minutes.

Add the shallots and cook until soft and translucent, stirring frequently.

Add the ginger and garlic and cook for 1-2 minutes until fragrant. Next, add the chilli oil and ground sesame seeds and cook for another 1-2 minutes. Add 1.5 litres of the dashi stock, soy sauce and rice vinegar. Turn the heat up slightly and cook just before it starts to boil.

Place a lid tightly over the pan and reduce the heat to a gentle simmer for 20 minutes.

Add the oat milk, miso, tahini, and sea salt to the saucepan and mix well.

Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning if you deem necessary.

Pass the mixture through a sieve to remove any bits.

Cook the noodles in boiling water according to the packet instructions.

To serve, place noodles in a bowl, ladle over the ramen broth and add your chosen toppings.

Poppy MistFebruary 3, 2021