Insalata di Pomodori

The tomato, a humble yet extraordinary ingredient, central to one of the world's most revered food cultures, originated in the Americas.

Although the exact date of its cultivation remains uncertain, it is evident that indigenous people in southern Mexico and neighbouring regions were already growing this fruit by 500 BC. Further evidence of domestication can be traced back to the Aztecs who incorporated tomatoes into their cooking as early as the sixteenth century.

The fruit likely made its way to Spain in the form of seeds carried by returning colonists or missionaries after the Spanish invasion in 1519. When the tomato arrived in Italy, it was quickly embraced and rebranded as ‘Pomodoro’, derived from ‘pomo d’oro’, meaning 'apple of gold.'

As the ‘taste’ of the tomato (both due to its flavour and appearance, and in the broader cultural sense) evolved over centuries, so did its place in Italian cookery.

Initially, Italians cultivated only a few tart varieties, often confusing them with tomatillos (a member of the nightshade family). However, by the late 18th century, sweeter and more delicate tomatoes emerged, leading to their increased use in sauces and dishes.

In the 19th century, tomatoes evolved into versatile ingredients, substituting meat in sauces, and appearing in salads, particularly in lower-income households. Smaller tomatoes gained popularity for canning, while larger ones were processed into paste, becoming integral to pizza and pasta. As the 19th century came to a close, both pasta production and tomato preservation became industrialised, solidifying the tomato's place in Italian cuisine.

This salad recipe pays homage to the fruit in its purest form, combining it with mozzarella, nectarine, fresh mint, and a dressing featuring fennel, chilli, and crispy onions, thereby allowing the tomato’s flavour to truly shine.

Serves 4 (as a side)

Time 15 mins

Ingredients

600g of good quality mixed tomatoes, large ones cut into 0.5cm rounds, medium ones into 0.5cm-wide wedges, cherries halved

1 ripe nectarine, stone removed and cut into 0.5cm-wide wedges

250g (drained weight) of mozzarella, torn into bite-size pieces

4 tbsps of crispy fried onion pieces

A handful of fresh mint leaves, coarsely chopped

For the dressing

1 tsp of fennel seeds

1/2 tsp of dried chilli flakes

4 tbsps of extra virgin olive oil + extra for serving

2 tbsps of cider vinegar

1 tsp of honey

1 tsp of sea salt + extra for seasoning

Instructions

For the dressing, add the fennel seeds to a small frying pan over a medium heat and toast until fragrant. Add the fennel seeds to a pestle and mortar, crush and allow to cool. Next, add the chilli flakes and continue to crush into a coarse powder. Combine with the rest of the ingredients for the dressing. Set aside.

In a large bowl, combine the salad ingredients with the dressing. Season to taste.

Transfer to a large serving plate, drizzle with olive oil, and enjoy alongside a good hunk of rustic bread.

Poppy MistSeptember 24, 2023